“Do you remember the noise of it? Grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins and great-grandparents. Daughters. Four generations at one point… It was too quiet with just me and mum here… But this is where I grew up. This is where I raised Camila.”
Emilia puts her hand to the wall of her home. The old paint job crumbles under her touch. She closes her eyes, and for a moment she hears the echoes of their voices, as if the walls still remember their vibrations. “So many years. All these memories… How do I say goodbye to all that?”
Her neighbour looks at his rubber slippers and tugs at them with his toes. “You don’t,” he says. “You just leave…”
It has been five months since Emilia’s mother died. Five months with only memories for company. She was 94 years old. Her neighbour has agreed to try to sell the house for whatever price he can get, though they both know nobody will want it. Empty houses are the one thing this city has in abundance.
“You’re doing the right thing, Emilia. She wouldn’t want you to be stuck here on your own. There’s nothing left. Go. God bless you. Be with your family.”
#
There are countless things Emilia couldn’t bear to part with, but had to anyway. Her mother’s diaries, her grandfather’s violin, and Camila’s drawings from primary school: these and a thousand other impossible choices have left her with the heavy, lame-wheeled suitcase she is now dragging along the dusty road.
Emilia takes a side street, where she’s unlikely to run into anyone she knows, though there is hardly anybody left to run into. It is early in the morning, and already the sun is beating down with uncommon heat. She walks close enough to the row of buildings to stay in the shade, but far enough to avoid materials that might come crashing from collapsing rooftops. Above her, a tree sprouts from the rotten wood of a battered balcony, half its roots dangling into the air. It is bound to fall one of these days.
An old dog raises itself as she walks by. It looks at her as if to beg for food, but can quickly tell she has none to give and lies back down. Emilia passes the old ice cream parlour, where she used to take Camila for a treat when she came home with good grades. Its windows are brown with thick grime, and she can barely see through them even when cupping her hands against the glass. There is a broken table. A few stray chairs.
By the time Emilia arrives at the city’s main square, her back is damp with sweat and her suitcase dirty from all the dust it has kicked up. There used to be music here, a few decades ago. Always one group or another, trying to get friends or strangers to sing along to the rhythms they all grew up with. Artists would set up easels and chairs to paint the church or the statues, or the hill that overlooks the city. Kids would play catch around the fountains that still ran with water back then.
Emilia walks past a few drunk men, half-asleep on the stone benches, moving only to turn their backs to the sun. Next to the church, where the buses used to stop, she finds two bike taxis. They are welded together with parts of spare metal and old furniture for seats. The younger driver seems to be about 50. His gut swells past his unbuttoned shirt, and a permanent smile is tacked onto his face. The other man, much older, sits slumped with his back against the wall.
The old man is confused when Emilia stops in front of him. Shifting his weight around, he leans first on the ground, then on his knees for support to stand up. He straightens his crooked body as much as he can. The few teeth he has left jut from his gums at odd angles. People this age don’t work unless they really need the money.
“Can you take me to the station?”
“The station?” he asks, not quite believing someone would choose him over the younger man. The short-sleeved shirt he wears is full of holes. His bald head is crowned by angry, reddish-brown skin, peeling in parts. He sees her looking and takes a cap from his pocket to cover it. “Of course!”
The old man moves to prepare his bike, but the younger driver is quick to grab Emilia’s suitcase and tug at it, though she doesn’t let go. “You’ll be there in 30 minutes at most if I drive you. With him, it’ll take you all day.”
Hearing this, the old man’s face bunches into a fleshy bulb, yet he doesn’t say anything.
“I have all day,” Emilia insists, and wrestles the suitcase back.
The younger man’s grin widens, as if he’s just been told some funny joke. Spitting on the ground between Emilia and the old man, he turns his back to them.
The old man sticks his thumb into a hole at the hem of his shirt. He takes a trembling breath before giving Emilia a grateful nod. Stepping towards her, he tries to heave the suitcase onto the seat of the bike taxi, but finds that it is too heavy.
“Let me help you,” Emilia says, and together, they lift it up. The old man wheezes from the effort. “You’re sure it’s not too far to the station?” she whispers to him.
Chewing on the edge of his flaking lips, he frowns like he’s thinking about a hard riddle, then looks at his tattered shoes, stretching his toes within them. “Do you need to get there soon?”
“Not at all. I was so nervous today that I left six hours early.”
His expression changes into the kind of smile only the very young or the very old can muster. “We’ll get there,” he says.
The old man’s whole body curls as he begins to pedal. For a second, nothing happens. But then his leg stretches, and the bike begins to move. Emilia has no time to feel relieved before they stop at the second intersection next to the old theatre, where colonial pillars sustain a weathered roof. “I once played Sancho Panza in a production of Don Quijote when I was young and still had the stomach for it,” he says, pointing at the decrepit building. “And the gravedigger in Hamlet. I didn’t get many good parts like that, but that’s what I did. I was an actor.”
Next to them stands a statue with a determined westward gaze: the island’s national poet. It has held up well, despite the years of neglect; the roof above it less so. Water has pooled in a cavity between broken tiles and splintered wood, and drips slowly onto the statue’s head, following the path of slimy film down its marbled face.
“That’s nice,” Emilia says, now wondering whether six hours will be enough time to get to the station.
“You’re heading to the capital?” the old man asks, and pedals on.
“And flying onwards from there. I’m going to live with my daughter and my grandson.”
The effort of cycling interrupts their conversation before it can really get started. In any case, Emilia knows it is not a strange thing to leave the country. Many say it’s stranger to stay.
She keeps a guarding hand on her suitcase. They are going far too slow for it to slip from the seat, but there is an anxiety inside of her that flares up whenever she isn’t touching it. Camila has told her she’ll have to hand it over when she flies; that it will slide past one set of rubber curtains, only to reappear through another, 22 hours later and half the world away.
The old man pedals in two stages: first, he pushes hard to speed up, his bony fingers tightening around the handles and the strain of it bending his body. Then, when the bike has gathered some momentum, he leans back, trying to recover from the sprint, though they always slow down before he can catch his breath. Emilia knows there is a slope coming up half a mile ahead, not very steep but long and steady. “Can we take a break here?” she calls.
“Are you sure?”
“You see this?” She points to a large, square building. “That’s where I went to primary school. My daughter Camila, too.” Emilia gets off the bike, passing a big tree sprouting from the cracked pavement. She leans against the fence, careful not to scratch herself on its rusted spikes.
The old man pinches his shirt near his heart and tugs at it to cool his body. “As did I,” he says, beaming. “I think… ah yes, that one, with all the broken windows? That was my classroom. Which one was yours?”
“I don’t remember. But Camila’s was next to the entrance over there. I picked her up every day. Right here.”
They stand in silence for a moment. Sunlight draws the shape of leaves on the dried-out lawn, swaying to the rhythm of the wind.
“When did she leave?”
“Almost 20 years ago,” Emilia says. “She’s an architect. In Europe.”
He smiles at Emilia, as if he, too, were proud of Camila. “You mentioned a grandson?”
“Nine years old already,” she says, and out of habit, takes her phone from her pocket to show him the pictures. “The last time Camila visited was before he was born. She sent me this phone, and we talk all the time, but she works very hard. And she’s raising him all on her own. It’s not easy to get time off for such a long trip. And I could never go visit them either, with my mother to take care of…”
Emilia worries that she has said more than is proper. People usually avoid the sad undercurrent of it all. A wave of embarrassment prickles her skin, though the old man gives her no cause to feel it.
“You must be excited to see them.”
“I am,” she says, and nods, leaving the fear that paralyses her unmentioned: of living in a place with a strange language, where people will look at her for sounding foreign; where the freezing cold will burn her skin and the winter months will leave her starved for light. Where her daughter and her grandson will spend all day at work and school, and she will be alone in a small flat, with nothing to do except wait. A place where, Camila says, your neighbours might as well be strangers, and where people don’t speak to each other at the bus stop.
“What about you, do you have children?” she asks to stop herself from thinking about all this, though she already knows the answer.
Shaking his head, he adjusts his cap. “It wasn’t meant to happen for me.” The air has come to a standstill. The old man slaps the back of his neck and checks his hand. Flicking away a crushed mosquito, he nods at the bike. “Shall we?”
Emilia pictures her daughter running through the entrance at the ringing of the bell, her braided hair among the heads of children. She is waiting for some signal in her body. Some sense to tell her she is ready to leave, but it doesn’t come.
She lets go of the fence and pats the rusty residue from her hands.
#
A rotten stench rises from the river below. It has always been full of rubbish, but is now brimming with it. Only a few stray streams of dark water glitter between piles of plastic bottles, disintegrating clothes, and old children’s toys. There are pale bones of dead birds buried in their fluff of feathers. Emilia pinches her nose until they’ve passed it.
The old man speeds up before the incline begins, but within seconds, all the bike’s momentum has evaporated. There are no low gears to switch to, and his thin legs labour as they push. Drenched in sweat, his shirt clings to the bulging shape his back has hunched into. Soon, he is rocking back and forth, leveraging every ounce of his weight to fight his way up the slope. There’s a crackle to his wheezing breath.
“Please stop here,” Emilia calls, and steps out with one leg onto the road to prevent them from rolling down again. “I didn’t bring any water. And I would really like a drink. There’s a place over there.”
The old man turns to her, squinting from exhaustion. “I know it,” he says.
Two blocks along a perpendicular street, they arrive at a house with open doors. Several bedsheets have been stitched together into an improvised canopy, giving shade to a few tables and chairs on a dry lawn. The hum of a generator sounds out from behind the building.
“Would you watch over my suitcase for a second?” Emilia asks and walks into the house without waiting for an answer. A minute later, she comes out with two cold lemonades.
“For you,” Emilia says, placing the glass bottles on one of the tables.
The old man pushes the bike onto the lawn. “I can’t accept that.”
Emilia picks the closest chair to her suitcase. “You can. Where I’m heading, the money I have in my purse won’t buy me anything at all. Please just take a seat and have a drink.”
The old man wipes his face with his collar, though there is not a dry spot left on his shirt. He looks at his trembling hands and rubs his swollen knuckles. “Thank you,” he says, and sits opposite Emilia. He makes himself drink slowly, even though he clearly wants to gulp the whole bottle in one go.
Emilia slides her hand over the table. The wood is rough and worn down by weather and age. On the labels of their glass bottles, the shape of the island is printed, peeling from condensation. Lágrimas Negras, a song they’ve heard a million times, starts playing from a radio inside the house. It’s a sad song, but even the sad songs make you want to dance in this country.
“My family comes from back there,” he says, pointing with a shaky finger to the hills in the west. “I remember living there when I was still very young.”
“Is that so?” Emilia can’t see far through the shimmering air.
“We had grapevines growing all around. We made wine, sometimes even sold it. Not very good wine. It was much too sweet, I’m told. But it was something. And it was ours… This was a long time ago.”
Emilia keeps her eyes trained westward. She tries to imagine a patch of that hillside overgrown with vines, but finds that she can’t.
With a rattling cough, the old man loosens something in his lungs and swallows it with a sip of lemonade. Then he begins to bob his knees and hum to the rhythm and the melody of the music.
“Did you ever think about leaving?” Emilia asks.
The old man shrugs. He takes his hat off to fan himself with the cap and, leaning back into his chair, gives a gum-filled, cheeky smile. “You know the four groups of people who stay? They are: the stupid, the old, the poor, and the ugly. I’m a proud member of at least three of those groups. And the fourth one is up for debate,” he says, laughing. “But of course I’ve thought about it,” he continues, before Emilia can answer. “Who hasn’t? Sometimes I regret that I didn’t do it. But then I think back, and I remember that no matter how bad things got here, there was never anywhere else I wanted to be. I had family. I had friends. Most of them are long gone, of course, but even now…” He sticks his thumb into the mouth of the bottle and flicks it out with a melodic pop. “Look, I’m 79 years old. Memories are the one thing I have left in life. And this place, for all its faults… It helps me remember. I see those hills, and I remember growing up there. I drive past my old school, and I remember my first kiss. I was eleven, and she was called Isabel. I remember sitting at this very table, maybe eight years ago, with a good friend who has since died. We used to act together. Why would I want to be in a place where I have no history? No memories?”
Emilia takes a sip of her lemonade. The sweetness of it coats her tongue. She stares at the old man without offering an answer to his question.
“Oh, I’m sorry, I wasn’t trying to… I’m sure it’s different for you. You have your daughter and your grandson. Besides, you’re still young.”
Emilia has to laugh at this. “66 isn’t young.”
“It is to a 79-year-old.” He smiles and then, after a breath, leans forward to look at her closely. “You’ll have a good life there. You’ll see.”
“Touch wood,” she says, knocking on the table. “Camila has been wanting me to come for years. But I…”
“You had to take care of your mother,” the old man says.
Emilia bites her lip and shakes her head slightly. “I’m not even sure that is why I stayed. The house we lived in, it used to be full. A little too full, maybe. But then my nieces and nephews left, and pretty soon my brothers and my sister went to live with them. And Camila too… I know that they all did it out of necessity, but… I was angry. I never admitted it, but I was angry with each and every one of them. Not because they were leaving me or my mother behind, but because…”
Emilia grapples for words she can’t quite find. A bird flutters by and lands on the decaying roof of a house across the street. Its windows are boarded up. There are no materials to fix it. Even if there were, nobody would have the money to pay for it. And even if they did, there are no workers left to do the job.
“I don’t know whether there was ever any real chance of things getting better here. But maybe the whole reason it turned out like this is because everybody left. Maybe the problem is that nobody is willing to stay…” Shards of glass glitter in the puffs of dried grass around them. Emilia pulls the label off her bottle and tears the wet paper into little pieces. “I don’t even know if I believe that. Without the money Camila sent, there’s no way we could have…”
Emilia falls silent. The old man’s stained and tattered shirt is only now beginning to dry. The joints of his hands are swollen, and the peeling sores on his scalp shimmer with sweat.
“How do you do it?” Emilia asks.
The old man lifts his bottle as if it were an object of admiration, holding it by the tips of his fingers. One last sip of lemonade swirls at its bottom. “To be or to be. There is no question,” he says, and drinks what is left.
#
They push the bike up the rest of the hill. The station lies a few hundred metres below. Rushing air cools their bodies on their way down, and Emilia keeps a tight grip on her rattling suitcase. A sign tells them the bus bound for the capital will leave as planned in three hours. There is a small crowd at the station, more people than she is used to seeing together. Most of them are too old to leave, and have come to wave their family or friends off. They see Emilia’s suitcase and are quick to help her lift it from the seat.
“The capital, huh?” someone asks.
“And onwards from there,” Emilia says.
One of them is tuning a guitar that is missing the second string. He asks the crowd for suggestions, but nobody reacts until the old man calls out the song that played on the radio, halfway up the hill. The instrument is beaten down by age and has to be strummed hard to be heard over the nervous chatter, in which the impending farewell is becoming steadily harder to ignore.
Emilia checks her handbag for her passport and her purse. There is nothing left to do but wait. She wants to pay the old man, but he is so caught up in the music that she doesn’t want to interrupt. From behind his flaking lips, he sings along, at first mumbling, but then in a cracked baritone voice for the last repetitions of the chorus.
The silence that follows the final chord is immediately swallowed by noise. Only Emilia and the old man notice that the song is over. He lets out a happy sigh and turns to Emilia, bowing to her like he used to on stage. She pays him three times more than he asked for. “Thank you. For everything,” she says, and closes his left hand around the money. With things as they are, it might be worth half as much in a month. “Take it. It’s okay,” she adds before he can protest.
He takes her hand and holds it tight. “You’ll have a good life there. I know you will.”
Someone pulls out a chair for Emilia to sit. She closes her eyes, letting the voices around her melt into a blur. There is birdsong and a breeze, and the workings of the rusted bike pedals. The guitarist retunes a string. And it is only after the old man has disappeared around the corner that Emilia realises she forgot to ask his name.